۳ مهر, ۱۴۰۰

آرایش در سایه رنگ ها

  • توسط m.kazemi
  • 8 سال قبل
  • 37687 بازدید
  • ۴,۱۶۰

وسوسه لوازم آرایش ریشه ای تاریخی دارد. از تصویر معروفی که کلئوپاترا را نشسته بر صندلی مقابل چندین جا عطری و سرمه دان نشان می دهد، می توان قدمت آن را فهمید.

 

از آنجا که پس از سی سالگی کلاژن کمتری در سلول های پوستی ساخته می شود، مالیدن کرم های حاوی کلاژن و حاوی کینون که پوست را در برابر رادیکال های آزاد محافظت می کند بسیار توصیه می شود. علاوه بر بالا رفتن سن، استعمال سیگار و قرار گرفتن در معرض نور آفتاب نیز باعث کاهش تولید کلاژن می شود که در صورت استفاده نکردن از ضدآفتاب و عدم قطع استعمال سیگار هیچ کرم و لوسیون معجزه آوری نخواهد توانست شادابی و طراوت را به پوست باز گرداند.

نگاهی به تاریخچه هنر آرایش و تکنیک های ترمیمی

فقط کافی است یک دقیقه مقابل ویترین فروشگاه های عرضه لوازم آرایشی بایستیم و به انواع و اقسام ریمل، کرم پودر، سایه و رژلب که در رنگ های متنوع و جعبه های زیبا از پشت شیشه خودنمایی می کنند، خیره شویم.
به دقیقه دوم نمی رسد که هوس یکی از آنها به سرمان می زند و خود را تسلیم فاکتور فروش می کنیم. معلوم نیست چه جاذبه ای در لوازم آرایشی نهفته که آدم را در عرض چند دقیقه ناچیز به تکاپوی خرید می اندازد.

مطمئناً جادوی رنگ ها در آن بی تاثیر نیست. دیدن چند ردیف سایه مثل مداد رنگی هایی که در یک جعبه بیست و چهارتایی کنار هم چیده شدند کافی است که آدم را یک هو به وسوسه خرید بیندازد.

اولین مردمانی که از لوازم آرایش (البته نه به شکل امروزی) استفاده می کردند، مصریان بودند. در حدود ۳۵۰۰ سال قبل از میلاد مسیح برای مراسم مذهبی عطریات و لوازم آرایش مصرف می کردند.

عصاره گیاهان معطر را به بدن می مالیدند تا پوستی نرم و خوشبو داشته باشند.

استفاده از حمام معطر نیز به این دوران تعلق دارد. حمام شیر که کلئوپاترا برای زیبایی پوستش استفاده می کرد، امروزه چنان مورد توجه متخصصین پوست قرار گرفته که در بسیاری از انستیتوهای پاریس وان شیر را می توان دید. رومی ها نیز از شیر الاغ برای صاف و صیقلی شدن پوست شان استفاده می کردند. لوازم آرایش آن زمان از ریشه، برگ و صمغ درختان و برخی مواد معدنی مثل محلول کربنات دو پلمب که در نقاشی به عنوان رنگ سفید به کار می رفت، تهیه می شدند. مصری ها از دوده چراغ برای سیاهی ابروها و یا اکسیدآهن برای تهیه سرخاب استفاده می کردند.

یونانی ها همچنان از مخلوط ریشه گیاهان با روغن به عنوان سفت کننده پوست بهره می گرفتند. از قرون وسطی به بعد آرایش کم کم به شیوه امروزی درآمد. بیشتر مواد رنگی روی گونه ها و لب ها زده می شد. صورت سفید، موهای بور، گونه های برجسته قرمز و لبان قرمز فرم دلخواه زنان آن زمان بود. از ترکیب سفیده تخم مرغ، لیمو، نمک حاوی اسیدبوریک و سدیم برای سفید کردن صورت، از زعفران برای قرمزی لب ها و از نعناع برای سفید کردن دندان ها استفاده می کردند.

در قرن پانزدهم که فلورانس تحت حکومت مدیچی ها بود، ایتالیا به عنوان مرکز زیبایی مورد توجه قرار گرفت. کاترین مدیچی نیز نخستین مرکز عطر و لوازم آرایش به نام Santa maria novella در فلورانس را راه اندازی کرد. پس از اینکه ملکه فرانسه شد اولین مرکز آرایش در پاریس را نیز تاسیس کرد. در همین زمان استفاده از گیاهان و میوه ها به عنوان ماسک نزد زنان ثروتمند اروپا متداول شد

ماسک هایی که از ترکیب پودر پیاز، کره، عسل، آرد حبوبات، تخم مرغ و چربی غاز ساخته می شدند و برای صاف شدن پوست به کار می رفتند. در این زمان آرایش چشم زیاد باب نبود، آنچه بیش از همه روی صورت نمایان بود، سرخی گونه ها و لب ها بود. اما در قرن ۱۸ قرمزی آرایش ها کم شد. لب ها و گونه ها صورتی شدند. اما چشم ها همچنان بدون آرایش ماندند.

در قرن ۱۹ که مادام دکولاس انستیتو زیبایی و سلامت پوست در پاریس را راه انداخت اولین نوع سایه و رژلب و رژگونه های رنگی به بازار آمدند. مادام که بیش از آرایش به سلامت پوست اهمیت می داد، برای اولین بار کرم های آرایش را با گیاهان دارویی مخلوط می کرد و در دسترس مشتریان قرار می داد.

از زمان جنگ جهانی دوم تا به امروز دنیای آرایش سه مرحله را طی کرده، یکی سال های جنگ، که سال رکود لوازم آرایش بود. دومی، از ۱۹۴۵ تا ۱۹۸۰ که به دوره افراط و زیاده روی آرایش معروف است و دیگری از اواخر ۸۰ تا به امروز که آرایش بیش از آنکه به شکل نقاب رنگین روی صورت باشد، ترمیمی و تکمیل کننده عیوب و ناهمواری های صورت است.

ابروهای باریک، سایه های کمرنگ، گونه های ملایم و رژلب های براق از ویژگی های این دوره آرایشی اند.» اینها جملات النا ملیک است. کسی که در ایتالیا «بانوی آرایش» می نامندش و جزء پایه گذاران رشته گریم در ایتالیا است و اکنون مدیریت شرکت آرایش Lierac را بر عهده دارد. ملیک با اینکه بانوی آرایش نام گرفته ولی بی هیچ آرایشی در محافل هنری ظاهر می شود. موهای کوتاه خرمایی دارد و به جز یک رژلب قرمز از محصولات آرایش دیگری استفاده نمی کند. به قدری ساده است که وقتی او را در رستوران Panamaمیلان (جایی که قرار گذاشته بودیم) دیدم، فکر کردم شخصی است که برای شنیدن این گفت وگو آمده است. چرا که ملیک از ستون نویسان پروپا قرص مجلات آرایشی در ایتالیا است. النا ملیک، زاده ایتالیا است و اصالتی ارمنی دارد. مادرش آلساندرا ملیک باباخانیان یکی از ارامنه ساکن پترزبورگ است که در جنگ جهانی دوم به میلان می رود و به عنوان گریمور در سالن تئاتر میلان مشغول به فعالیت می شود. النا پس از راه انداختن یک سالن آرایش با کمک یک متخصص پوست به نام دکتر پایوت به پاریس می رود و شروع به ساختن کرم های آرایشی که خاصیت درمانی نیز دارند می کند.

او می گوید: وقتی دختران جوان را می بینم که آرایش روی چهره دارند، متاسف می شوم چرا که آرایش مخصوص خانم های مسن است که طراوت پوستشان از دست رفته است، نه آنها که با کمی مراقبت می توانند پوستی صاف، یکدست و زیبا داشته باشند.» البته نه او که اکثر متخصصان پوست با آرایش در سنین جوانی مخالفند و تنها استفاده از کرم های مرطوب کننده و یا ضدآفتاب را برای آنها توصیه می کنند.

حقیقتاً هم لوازم آرایش تنها می توانند قسمتی از معایب صورت را برطرف کنند و بپوشانند که بیش از همه برای تغییر رنگ و چهره مورد استفاده قرار می گیرد. استفاده از پن کیک و کرم پودر به مرور زمان باعث از دست رفتن طراوت و شادابی پوست می شود. تا سن ۳۰ – ۲۵سالگی که پوست بدن مقدار زیادی کلاژن تولید می کند می توان بدون استفاده از کرم های آرایشی و تنها با استفاده از کرم ضدآفتاب برای مقابله با اثرات زیان بار خورشید پوستی سالم داشت.

از آنجا که پس از سی سالگی کلاژن کمتری در سلول های پوستی ساخته می شود، مالیدن کرم های حاوی کلاژن و حاوی کینون که پوست را در برابر رادیکال های آزاد محافظت می کند بسیار توصیه می شود. علاوه بر بالا رفتن سن، استعمال سیگار و قرار گرفتن در معرض نور آفتاب نیز باعث کاهش تولید کلاژن می شود که در صورت استفاده نکردن از ضدآفتاب و عدم قطع استعمال سیگار هیچ کرم و لوسیون معجزه آوری نخواهد توانست شادابی و طراوت را به پوست باز گرداند.

در خرید لوازم آرایش از پن کیک، کرم پودر تا سایه های چشم رعایت نکاتی که به سازگاری آنها با پوست ارتباط دارد، ضروری به نظر می رسد.

التهاب تماسی تحریکی، التهاب تماسی آلرژیک، کهیر تماسی، ایجاد کومدون (جوش های ریز) و بروز تاول ریز خارش دار و آکنه از شایع ترین عوارض پوستی است که به دنبال مصرف لوازم آرایش نامرغوب ایجاد می شود. هر کرم یا پماد چرب کننده ای که به صورت چند لایه مصرف می شود به علت مسدود کردن منافذ پوستی و غدد چربی می تواند باعث بروز واکنش های پوستی شود. برخی مواد رنگی و عطرهای موجود در پودرها باعث ایجاد حساسیت و قرمزی شده که بلافاصله پس از قطع استعمال بهبود می یابند.

اما به طور کلی مالیدن پن کیک (پودر) بهتر از استفاده چند لایه کرم پودر است.

پن کیک حالت براق پوست را ثابت می کند، پوست را در برابر تغییرات آب و هوا محافظت می کند، عرق را جذب نموده و حالت چرب و روغنی پوست را از بین می برد. پن کیک بیشتر برای پوست چرب توصیه می شود. افراد با پوست خشک لازم است قبل از استعمال پن کیک پوستشان را با کرم مرطوب کننده چرب نمایند. برخی مواد آرایشی وقتی روی پوست قرار می گیرند، احتمال بروز عوارضی نظیر کهیر، آفتاب سوختگی و لکه های تیره را تشدید می کنند. کرم پودرها و مواد آرایشی حاوی عطر از این نوع هستند. عطرها که معمولاً در بیشتر محصولات به عنوان خوشبوکننده یافت می شوند مهمترین عامل بروز کهیرهای پوستی اند. توصیه می شود لوازم آرایشی که برچسب Free fragrant دارند خریداری کنید.

توجه به مدت زمان استفاده از لوازم آرایش نیز راه دیگری برای کاهش آلرژی های پوستی است. متخصصان توصیه می کنند، بیش از ۶ ماه از یک کرم پودر یا پن کیک استفاده نشود. مداد چشم و لب نیز نباید بیش از ۶ ماه مورد مصرف قرار گیرند. رژ لب نیز تا وقتی در یخچال باشد می توان برای مدت یک سال استفاده نمود. در میان لوازم آرایش رژلب کمترین سهم را در بروز آلرژی دارد. گرچه آن هم نباید در مجاورت نور و هوای گرم قرارگیرد که فاسد بشود. رژلب مرغوب با روغن مناسب از ترک خوردن و خشک شدن لب جلوگیری کرده اثر حفاظتی بالایی بر لب خواهد داشت.

توصیه محققان زیبایی برای خرید رژلب به شرح زیر است:

رژلب باید چرب و متناسب با فرم و رنگ دندان خریداری شود. سفید بودن دندان ارتباط مستقیمی با زیبایی لب ها دارد. اگر به واسطه سیگاری بودن دندان هایتان زرد است از رژلب براق با رنگ های شاد استفاده نکنید. رژلب تیره و مات از رنگ زرد دندان ها کاسته و جلوی نمایان شدن آنها را می گیرد. رژلب قرمز و نارنجی هم چندان به سیگاری ها نمی آید، بیشتر به افراد با دندان های مروارید شکل پیشنهاد می شود. توصیه مهم دیگر برای نگهداری فرم لب ها قطع استعمال سیگار و خندیدن است. خنده باعث سفت شدن عضلات ناحیه لب شده و به استحکام ماهیچه های لب کمک می کند.

 

۴,۱۶۰ نظر

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